Saturday, July 13, 2013

Confessional Frother..

The term "frothing" is a surfing term which kind of replaced the word "stoked" after the word "stoked" went mainstream and even your grandmother was saying it. Frothing refers to the foam created from the copius amounts of saliva produced when one starts drooling over anticipated surf time. Heavy frothing occurs when an actual "beard" of froth begins to form on ones chin often associated with low tone constant groaning..
Being a sufferer of this condition myself for many years I find it hard to go more than 6hours without checking a 7day isobaric map. I often find myself planning my surfs 3 to 4 days out from the actual occurence constantly cross-referencing tides and even tide heights become crucial. I record the time it takes to drive to different locations and then add walking distances/wetsuit change times and the like to make sure I hit the water right at the intended time. I polish the bottom of my board and think speed32 is a viable invention. I infact get so adrenalised I shake and tremble before a surf , and once I hit the water I often find it anti-climatic and leave the water dissapointed as its the thrill of the chase that haunts my poor soul.
I can feel it brewing inside me now and its still 7days away from the event,
The admission of a chronic frother that I am.
 I live for whats around the corner.

No comments:

Post a Comment

Swell Season On !!!

(above) TuaraWhati in all its Glory. Just like that. The flick of a switch. Four days in a row of waves and at least 2 more systems on ...